Consider Recommendations

Usually, service regulations involve changing the oil every 4-9 thousand miles (7-15 thousand kilometers) depending on what is written in your instructions. But calculating replacement cycles according to the instructions is not always the best solution—it does not take into account the difference in mileage on the highway and in the city, as well as operating conditions.

Where do you travel most often? If in the city, change the oil a little earlier than recommended.

*The replacement interval for each model is different, so read the instructions.

Look at the Level Down

Be guided by the readings of the sensors and the uncharacteristic behavior of the car. If the level drops quickly, there may be a problem in the units, a reason to change the oil and at the same time diagnose the car in the service.

You can check the level with a probe edge—normal level marks are engraved on it. The level of oil has to be between top (F) and lower (L) marks in a probe edge.

*Check the level periodically without waiting for the oil pressure light to come on.

Check the Color of the Oil with a Probe Edge (Dipstick)

In the beginning, the oil is light and clean. If it gets dark, then it's time to change it. If the oil is completely black, you need to urgently change it and drive the car to the service for a check. Driving on used oil can damage vehicle components.

Check the color of the oil with a probe edge (dipstick). The car engine must be cold. If you drive mainly in the city in traffic jams, drive 5-6 thousand miles (8-10 thousand km) and then check the color every 300-600 miles (500-1000 km). If you operate the car on the highway or country road, check the color after 6-9 thousand miles (10-15 thousand km).

After changing the oil, stick a sticker with the name of the fluid and the date of replacement in a visible place. Use this life hack, and don't rely on memory.

Please note—the average life of the oil is one year. Even if your car just stood in the garage, the quality characteristics of the fluid have decreased, and the oil should be changed shortly.

*The easiest way to check the condition of the oil is with a dipstick, as also oil level.

Special Cases

Iron Shavings on the Probe

If you find iron shavings on the dipstick, go to a service center immediately. This means that the moving parts of the motor have begun to break down due to the inefficient operation of the oil.

What You Need to Change the Oil

It is better to prepare for an oil change in advance—the work is “dirty,” and in the middle of the process, it will be a bad idea to look for something in the garage.

You need to change the oil on a "warm" engine—ride a few kilometers and then let the engine cool down a bit. 5-10 minutes is pretty enough. This will make the oil more fluid and easier to drain.

So you will need:

• Canister of fresh oil

• Filter

• To unscrew the crankcase protection—a wrench of the right size depending on the car

• The same wrench is usually enough to unscrew the drain plug, but in some models, you can find a hex or Torx-star

• To drain used oil—a special pan or an old canister with a cut-off side

• New drain hole gasket—a multilayer washer

How to change the engine oil step by step:

1. Remove the protection - there are no universal tips; it all depends on the make and model of your car.

2. Draining the used liquid:

We put the pan and unscrew the drain plug. Be careful when the old oil pours - you can get burned. If you do not plan to carry out other work on the car right now, then you can remove the filler cap where the oil is poured - there is an opinion that the drain will be faster this way. But this is risky - dust or other debris can get into it. Take your time - at first, the oil will flow quickly, then the process will slow down. You need to wait until everything flows out of the drain.

3. Preparing for a new bay:

Remove the oil filter. Sometimes it is difficult to do it by hand, so use improvised means. It's better to take a special puller for your model - this is practiced in auto services, quickly and safely. Or pry the filter with something thin and strong, but be careful - the tool may come off and damage something. When the filter is removed, immediately tighten the drain plug - put a new gasket and tighten. Note that it doesn't take much effort - one of the most common problems when changing oil is a torn head hole.

4. Install a new oil filter:

Install a new filter. It is not necessary to fill the filter with new oil - this is pointless. Moreover, in many cars, the filters are placed at an angle, and the oil will pour out. Lubricate the rubber band of the new filter with oil, and tighten it by hand. The process doesn't have to be difficult - if it's difficult, add butter to the gum. Tighten the filter as tight as possible.

5. Fill with oil:

In the service, new oil is poured with a hose - it will turn out neatly. In the garage, you can use a funnel. Please note - you do not need to pour as much oil at once as indicated in the volume of the crankcase. You didn’t drain all the oil; something remained. You need to fill in a little less and wait until the oil is pumped out - about 10 minutes.

6. Check engine oil level:

Add oil, focusing on the top mark on the dipstick. If you are doing this for the first time, study the instructions and consult with a specialist - in some machines, it is worth keeping the border below the maximum mark, half of the minimum, and in others - near the top mark. Check if everything went well - start the engine. If the oil pressure indicator goes out, the filter is full. Stop the engine and wait another 5-10 minutes. Then check the level and add oil if necessary. You can go. Repeat the level check after 200 miles (300 km). Please note that if you use a car with automatic transmission, then switch the selector several times before the trip - this way the oil mixes better with the remnants of the old one. Focus on the dashboard oil indicator and probe edge (dipstick).

The main mistakes and problems after an engine oil change:

1. Overfilling or underfilling oil:

Overflowing oil leads to excess pressure inside the engine. Because of this, rubber seals can be torn off, and the engine will flood with oil. If the oil is not topped up, the engine will be poorly lubricated, overheat and fail. Find out the amount of oil that the engine can hold and measure the right amount of fluid according to the canister marks. And don’t forgot to check oil level

2. Insufficient drainage of old engine oil

If the oil is poorly drained, the old and new oil will mix, causing the engine to not be lubricated enough, and resulting in increased motor wear and overheating.

Warm up the engine to operating temperature and drain the hot oil so that it becomes thinner and flows out better. Additionally, flushing the engine can help improve oil drainage.

Improperly installed engine oil filter

If the filter is not tightened properly, oil consumption will increase, the level will decrease, and the engine will wear out faster.

Tighten the oil filter as tightly as possible after correctly installing it in its seat.

Using the wrong engine oil

Using motor oil that is not suitable for the engine can cause problems, such as difficulty starting in the cold due to inappropriate viscosity or quality.

Buy the oil recommended by the manufacturer from authorized dealers, and rely on the advice of car service specialists.

Untimely oil change

If you do not change the oil on time, it loses its protective properties and lubricates the engine poorly. Burnt oil is deposited on the walls of the engine, and the friction of parts increases.

Keep track of the mileage and follow the manufacturer's instructions for oil changes. Changing the oil more often can help extend the life of the engine.